Waves | Monday, December 05, 2005 |
After a long (and I mean long) boozy lunch on Saturday, we shook off our fuzzy heads to head for Maroubra beach. To me, it has almost everything that a beach should have save for having a stream. Rocks and rock-pools, a nice stretch of white sand, somewhere not to far away to go get a cold drink if necessary, and waves. Quite big ones.
Out in the sea, perhaps no more than about 15 feet from the sand, a succession of nice big rollers swept in and jumping at just the right time allows you to be carried almost back to the shore, but I have a new (or renewed) admiration for world class surfers now.
By comparison, these were tiddlers, and yet a good number were cresting to break some feet above my head and it's quite invigorating to be turned upside down and scraped along the floor :-)
Out in the sea, perhaps no more than about 15 feet from the sand, a succession of nice big rollers swept in and jumping at just the right time allows you to be carried almost back to the shore, but I have a new (or renewed) admiration for world class surfers now.
By comparison, these were tiddlers, and yet a good number were cresting to break some feet above my head and it's quite invigorating to be turned upside down and scraped along the floor :-)
